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Flower Power Update: Going Pro

by: Jill Richardson

Sun Feb 07, 2010 at 23:08:07 PM PST


This week, I had an inspiration. I spoke to Stacey of BK Farmyards in Brooklyn, NY. They run a CSA program out of people's backyards in New York City. What a great idea! If she can do it, why not me? So I sent out an email asking for a guinea pig. Who would offer up their yard for me to farm it? The homeowner would pay a price like a real CSA, except it would be less expensive because they were donating the land. A woman responded and I met with her Wednesday. Then a few friends responded that they had a similar idea to start a CSA program out of backyards, and perhaps we could work together. Awesome! Maybe I can turn Flower Power Farm into a reality! So here's what happened...
Jill Richardson :: Flower Power Update: Going Pro
On Wednesday I met with my clients/guinea pigs. They are a lovely couple with a new house and a totally dead but large yard. They've got clay soil and lots of bermuda grass, same as me. We talked for a while and I got a sample of their soil to send off for testing. We figured out some next steps and decided to start officially on March 1. The next day I got a sample of my own soil, and dried both samples. The day after that, I mailed both samples to a lab for testing. The lab at UMass will test for pH, NPK, organic matter content, and heavy metals for only $13. Awesome.

Between now and March 1, I am going to get everything ready to go. I began by purchasing a bunch of seeds for cold weather crops along with a few trays to plant them in and some potting soil. I also got the book How to Grow More Vegetables by John Jeavons and Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth. I compiled the information from the Jeavons book into a spreadsheet, where I have listed each type of seed I have (or plan to get) along with when I've planted them, how many I've planted, and what my expected yield and harvest dates are. That way, you can filter on the word "Harvest" for a particular date and come up with a list of what would go in a CSA box that week.

Right now I am growing:
Lots of carrots
Some winter squash
Lots of sugarsnap peas
Lots of scallions
37 heads of garlic
21 heads of cabbage
18 yellow beets
11 chard plants
6 Lambs quarters
24 spinach
Some arugula
20 heads of broccoli
6 brussel sprouts
27 heads of cabbage
14 heads of cauliflower
6 leeks
6 collards
12 kale
48 dragon carrots
cilantro
parsley
dill
marigolds
24 nasturtiums
basil
tarragon
sage
thyme
lemon balm
9 fava beans
3 lima beans
30 lettuce (various types)
6 sunflowers
2 sunchokes

The first of this should be ready to go by March 1 and then each week after that, there will be more and more to eat. Today I met with the other folks who wanted in on this. None of them were interested in money, but they were each expert gardeners who were willing to offer advice and/or labor. We spent 2 hours going through plans and advice for a number of different plants. I've made plenty of mistakes, although none are too terrible. First, read the advice I got, and then I'll tell you what I've done right and wrong thus far and what I plan to do.

Advice:

Don't bother with plants that meet more than one of the following criteria: people can buy them cheaply, they take up a lot of space in the garden, they require tons of water, or they grow very slowly. These include broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, russet potatoes, parsnips, celery or celeriac, and carrots. However, specialty carrots, potatoes, and broccoli can be a good idea.

Broccoli and cabbage produce one head per plant and take up a lot of space in the garden. Both are cheap in the store.

Carrots are extremely cheap in the store.

Brussel sprouts are great to grow for foliage, which tastes like collards and grows wonderfully. However, if you grow them for brussel sprouts in San Diego's climate, you'll usually end up with an aphid infested mess. The one way to do it is to plant in September.

Parsnips are delicious but take forever to grow. I might try growing them in the future, but not now.

Celery requires lots of water, and celeriac takes a while to grow, so those are out (for now at least... I LOVE celeriac so I might give it a try in the future).

Don't use mulch in the summer! We've got a huge pill bug infestation problem and mulch gives them a habitat. Mulch in the winter is fine but it's wet enough then that it's not as needed.

Do grow plants that are expensive to buy in the store (or unavailable in the store). Grow daikons, watermelon radishes, strawberries, and heirloom tomatoes.

Do grow plants that produce a lot of food, particularly ones that produce a lot over a long period of time. These include the following:

Zucchini: During the warm season, plant zucchini successively. When the zucchini are small on your plants, plant more zucchini so that you'll have a continuous supply.

Chard: Chard grows year-round in San Diego. Plant a new crop every 2 months.

Tomatoes: Pick the ripe ones to get more tomatoes to ripen.

Do grow crops that grow quickly, like chioggia beets, lamb's quarters, and radishes. Watch out with radishes though, because you have to watch them closely or else they get too big to taste good. It might be best to skip them altogether in favor of daikons and watermelon radishes (which grow to the size of a baseball and taste wonderful).

Do grow things that people love like chard, beets, turnips, or heirloom carrots (Cosmic Purple or Atomic Red).

Do grow lots of herbs to use for companion planting (as well as for eating!). Also grow flowers as companion plants and then give flowers to people in their CSA boxes.

Do grow plants that add nitrogen to the soil (like legumes) or plants that don't mind growing in lousy soil (I need to get a list of these).

Do get the most out of a small space by utilizing vertical space. For example, I'll grow radishes and carrots together with lettuce. The radishes and carrots will grow underground next the to lettuce that grows above ground. I'll also plant vining cucumbers next to the sunflowers, which will serve as a trellis.

If you've been following this series, you know that the first thing my family and I did was plant carrots. We used 2 full packets of seeds to plant 3 rows of carrots. We had an excellent germination rate and ended up thinning out quite a bit of carrots. More thinning will be needed before the carrots are ready for harvest. I've got no idea how many carrots are growing right now. Carrots take 70-80 days to grow to full size, and we planted ours in mid-December. We've got about a month to go. In the future, I plan to plant heirloom varieties of carrots (especially the fun colored ones!) and I will plant them farther apart so I don't have to waste so many seeds by thinning them. Also, I'll plant some carrots every few weeks so that they become ripe at different times not all at once. Oh, and I've started getting into companion planting. Next time around, carrots will be planted with radishes and lettuce.

Obviously, I've planted a lot of broccoli and cabbage - plants that require a large amount of space and can be bought cheaply at the store. Whoops. I won't do that again. A good alternative still in the Brassica family is kohlrabi, which is less common in supermarkets and totally delicious. It's a particular favorite of mine and I'd love to grow it. Another mistake I made was planting broccoli and cabbage directly in the ground. Much of the broccoli didn't make it and by the time a few of the many seeds I planted sprouted, they were spaced approximately 12-15 inches apart from one another, which is perfect. The cabbage ALL sprouted and the seeds were each 1 inch apart. So now I've got lots of baby cabbages that either need to be thinned or moved. I've moved several of them, but have many more to go.

I've also planted brussel sprouts. The problem with planting them when I did is that the weather will got hot and they will be full of aphids by the time they grow. Whoops. But the foliage can be eaten like collards, so that's my plan. And I'm not planting any more brussel sprouts for a long time.

I bought seeds for radishes to plant with my carrots and lettuce. That was a mistake, according to Paul's advice. I think it'll be a nice quick food to grow and I don't mind keeping a close eye on them as they grow to make sure they don't get too big. In the future, I'll opt for daikons and watermelon radishes as recommended.

I also planted squash seeds from a few squashes I was eating. Who even knows what those seeds will turn into, since squash plants are a rather promiscuous bunch and it's totally possible for different species to breed and produce strange offspring. I didn't plant them at the right time of year, but the plants are growing so I'll just see what happens.

And I messed up with the garlic too. I planted 9 heads of it in between the carrots and the scallions (with a few squash volunteers nearby). Garlic needs to be all by itself because during its last few weeks in the ground, you have to stop watering it. You can't even water anything within about 2 feet of it.

Other than that, so far so good. As you can see, I've got a lot of stuff growing. Most of it is in little trays on my back patio:

From left to right: Nasturtiums, Sunflowers, Beets, Brussel Sprouts, Kale, Spinach, Spinach, Lettuce, Nasturtiums, Spinach, Spinach.

Here's a current look at the carrots, the first batch of garlic, some of the squash, and the scallions.


The bushy greens are the carrots, the large plants are the squash, the the green plants sticking straight up are the garlic. You can't really see the scallions because they are so dang tiny.

Then, if you recall the weedy area on the opposite side of the driveway from most of our yard (and outside of our fence), we've named that the Ladybug Love Patch because my boyfriend saw a few ladybugs going at it in there. Here it is before we pulled all of the weeds:

I plan to plant sunflowers along the fence (the north side) and then, when the weather warms up, I'll plant cucumbers together with them. Right now I've only prepared one section of the soil (the area that my plan below is for) and I've filled up the rest with seeds for red clover and hairy vetch as a cover crop.


The start of my plans for the first section of the Ladybug Love Patch. I realize you can't see it very well, but the left side (which borders the driveway) is mostly nasturtiums. The top and the area in the top left are a mix of chard, beets, and arugula (with a dill plant too). I'll probably fill in much of the leftover space in the top half with beets and spinach. The right side are my sunflowers and cukes. And the large circles going across the middle are cabbages. I think below the cabbage I'll put carrots, lettuce, and radishes.

So how does the CSA itself work? I'm planning to charge $160 for four weeks or $420 for twelve weeks for full shares. Half-shares are going to be available too. They'd be biweekly boxes at half the price of the full shares. This pricing is competitive with other CSAs in our area. I'd like to ultimately get the equivalent of 15 full share customers (i.e. 30 half share customers or 10 half and 10 full, etc). At the four-week price, 15 customers would bring in $2600 per month and at the twelve-week price, 15 customers would bring in $2275 per month.

For the homeowners who offer their yards, they would pay $100 per month for their CSA shares with a minimum of a six-month commitment plus $20 for an initial soil test. I'll offer the homeowners a discount of $10 per month for each CSA customer they refer who signs up, up to a maximum of $50 (i.e. If a homeowner finds me 5 customers, their price would go from $100/mo to $50/mo for as long as those 5 customers are subscribed). The homeowners would also get:

  • free fruit trees
  • an amazing herb garden
  • some planted flowers in their yards
  • vastly improved soil
  • access to as much gardening and sustainable living advice as they want
  • the option of harvesting their own food so that they can eat it fresh-picked
  • recipes for the food in each box from a chef (my boyfriend)

I would love to offer things like jam and sauerkraut but that would require a commercial kitchen and I am not there yet. For now, the most I can do is offer my own help and equipment if they want to make their own jam or sauerkraut. I'd also help the homeowners get started composting (if they don't already) and I'd gladly give them some worms if they'd like. Another option to consider is greywater, drip irrigation, and rainwater harvesting. Currently it's not in my budget to install these things for anyone, but we live in a dry area and they are all important things to think about for the future.

My costs would be:

  • Seeds (unless I can get them from seed-saving friends or save them myself)
  • Transportation (gas, car maintenance)
  • Compost tea brewing equipment (large bucket and a fish tank bubbler thingy)
  • Purchased produce from local farms if and when I screw up and don't have enough food to fill a CSA box
  • Lots of compost! ($6/bag, and one bag is needed for about 10 sq ft of soil... I should find a way to get compost in bulk for cheaper!!!)
  • Potting soil ($7.95/bag for the good stuff, and one bag can be used for starting at least 100 seeds if not more)
  • Little plastic seed starter trays ($1.99/each)
  • Larger pots for herbs that can't go in the ground (for stuff like mint, because it spreads everywhere if you let it).
  • Random soil amendments as needed.
  • Beneficial insects like ladybugs as needed.

So that's it! On March 1, we start. Assuming the soil tests say what I think and hope they say (that we have crappy soil but we don't have dangerous levels of heavy metals), I've got my plan. Over at my guinea pig/client's house, I'll plant the entire area in cover crops and then do a double dig (as recommended by How to Grow More Vegetables) in the area I'm ready to plant, mix in some compost, and then plant it with the starts that I've got ready to go (mostly brassica family plants and lettuce). That week, the CSA box will include: alfalfa sprouts, lamb's quarters, arugula, broccoli, carrots, and sugarsnap peas. The following week, we should have all of that plus spinach. The third week will really pick up with everything mentioned already plus some chard, fava beans, and a few types of lettuce. And, depending on when I get the radishes planted, we'll have some radishes somewhere in there. I'll also give them pea vines once the pea plants are done producing peas. I figure I'll continue to do this on a very experimental basis with few customers for now and then try to market it to a wider audience at the Earth Fair (on or around Earth Day).

Now the only thing left to do is figure out the legal side of this (taxes, health codes, etc). That's the part I dread. The rest of this is fun!

For the full story about "Flower Power Farm" (the name we chose for our garden):
Part 1: Preparing the soil and planting the carrot seeds
Part 2: Preparing the soil for peas and cruciferous veggies
Part 3: Enter the Pests
Part 4: The Carrots Sprouted!
Part 5: Gardening with the Kids
Part 6: The Peas Sprouted!
Part 7: The Cabbage Sprouted!
Part 8: The Garlic, Broccoli, and Nasturtiums Sprouted
Part 9: Fruit Tree Propagation Workshop
Part 10: Rain, Rain Go Away
Part 11: Flower Power Joins the Front Yard Gardening Movement

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We go nuts for brocoli (4.00 / 4)
we don't care what it costs in the store, it's about the taste :) You just can't beat a direct harvest (aside from the Farmer's market) vs the store. On the zucchini, are you just planting traditional? We usually have several varieties of summer squash and it breaks up the flood of zucchini ;) I made some dishes where a yellow squash was preferred, or a pancake (sorry, can't remember exact names, just what they looked like). Last summer we had 3 kinds of zuch instead of one. You may want to consider melons also. I don't know what variety of watermelon we had, but they weren't much larger than honeydew, so they were a nice size for 2-4 people. And if you plan on doing leeks for fall, consider some potatoes. Nothing like making potato leek soup with your CSA share. Big fav with many folks. And purple carrots rock! I think there's 5 colors you can do. People seem to like the rainbow chard also. It's amazing what fun color can do for a veggie!

You might want to start cruising Craig's List for used stock tanks for herb farming and other container produce. Also any other equip you might need. And Freecycle also.

On the garlic, can you pull it early as spring garlic instead of letting it fully mature and have to not water? Iirc, we would get scapes and "green garlic" early (in the first month or so for about 3 weeks) and then not see garlic again until after the garlic harvest. You may want to ask your group about that.

CSA's are 40 a week there?! Here and in the bay area they run 20-25. I'm debating between 2 right now and they are both 20ish a week for basic (more if you add eggs etc.) and sound pretty similar to what I was getting except they have citrus which we didn't have here. Have you thought about perhaps running an introductory rate in the beginning and building from there? We usually do a "returning member/early bird rate" each season and then the price goes to the reg season price for others who sign up. And we evaluate the rates each season. I don't know what this years rate increase was, but it is done for the season, so it's a minimal weekly increase overall and covers any increase in costs (for the farmer), materials we need for the CSA (new tent last year and supplementing shares for low income people to buy in etc) Once you get a core group going, you can build on it from there. Our farmer turned the running of the CSA mostly over to us and we formed a core group that handled the CSA in our 'hood and the other locations did the same. Frees you up to farm, and you don't have to hire people ;) Something to think about. Where I'm moving to, both CSAs look like they have volunteer homes for drop off points, which cuts down on delivery etc.

get yerself a good garden hat ;) Sounds like you have some enjoyable times coming up!


GREAT idea for spring garlic! (4.00 / 3)
You can get a CSA for less here (~ $30/wk). I might drop prices if I have to. But I did a calculation based on what is needed for me to make ends meet and I really need 15 full share customers paying $35/wk. I might do a trial rate - that's a good idea. And I'd also like to offer a 1 year share with a lower price. I really just need the average to be about $35/wk so if some people commit for longer and pay less that's good.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
Exciting news. (4.00 / 3)
When did you start implementing this idea? You've done a lot of thinking, planning, and work already. Gosh, March 1 is almost here!

What is the significance of your comment about fruit trees?

Getting money at the start in the CSA model is attractive, but besides that, what goes into the decision of CSA vs. farmers market? Is one more difficult than the other? Does it depend on how much you expect to harvest? Would the decision just be a matter of your personal preference?


how long... (4.00 / 3)
yes, you said you started during the past week. Hardly seems possible!

Speaking of flower power, more power to you and yours.


[ Parent ]
yeah, all during the past week (4.00 / 3)
I've been a busy girl!

Re: what goes into the decision... in my case it's kind of a simple case of having no land so I need to have some kind of reason to make a deal with people who offer up their yards, and also I don't have a booth at a market and I assume that it would require getting on a list and waiting in order to do that.  

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman


[ Parent ]
Sounds like a plan, Jill. (4.00 / 4)
Please keep us posted with frequent updates on your experiences. It sounds like a very interesting venture.

If you will be growing vegies in not very large areas, one resource you might find helpful is Squarefoot Gardening. Mel describes a method of planting that uses fewer seeds, resulting in far fewer little tiny plants having to be culled. I haven't fully converted to the Squarefoot plan, but have adapted quite a bit of it to my small gardening space.

This year I am planning to build some raised beds and incorporate even more of the ideas in Squarefoot Gardening. I think it will work well in my space.

Good luck with this new venture. And, like nycstray said, get a good gardening hat.

Here is a link for Squarefoot Gardening.


Have you checked out (4.00 / 4)
Fresh Food From Small Spaces by RJ Ruppenthal? It's my plane reading to CA. I also have another one that's similar, but involves chickens etc and shows how to sustain on an acre (including house) but can also be scaled down to smaller spaces. It's already packed though. Hardcover and all. I want to say it's a Storey book?

[ Parent ]
Would that be (4.00 / 3)
The Backyard Homestead by Carleen Madigan? That's one of my intensive farming bibles, along with Fresh Food from Small Spaces: The Square-Inch Gardener's Guide to Year-Round Growing, Fermenting, and Sprouting by R.J. Ruppenthal.

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....

[ Parent ]
Found it (4.00 / 3)
The Self-Sufficient Life and How to Live It by John Seymour. I looked at the Backyard Homestead, I may now pick it up since you like it so much :) Also glad to hear you like Fresh Food. I will still get a CSA when I move, but I want to start growing my own so eventually I won't have to depend on a CSA. This year, sauce tomatoes will be a biggie for me. Haven't decided what else I want to plant, I just know I want to grow my own tomatoes for my sauces etc :)

[ Parent ]
Hehe (4.00 / 2)
Sounds like a plan You get the one I recomended and I'll get the one you recomended. ;-)

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....

[ Parent ]
sounds great (4.00 / 2)
someone offered that one to me and I want to read it. The book I've got is great for growing in small spaces though. It does really well with not doing a lot of thinning and thus not wasting seeds, and also using starts to conserve space and water.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
HA! You've got the bug for sure (4.00 / 4)
Welcome to my world.

Your plans sound good. The one exception I would be very careful about is your plan to purchase produce from local farms to fill out your CSA baskets.

I know different states have different rules for this and I don't know what the rules are for California, or even in your town, but here's the rule for Oregon to give you an idea where to start.

In Oregon I can sell eggs from my own chickens without an egg handlers license as long as I sell direct to the consumer, and don't grade the eggs. Which means that in a box a customer will get a selection of large, small, white and colored eggs. I can't legally sell through a store or to a restaurant unless I get an egg handler's licence. I also can't legally sell eggs from any other farm.

For produce, I can sell anything I grow, pick or forage myself without obtaining a food dealer's (or seller's) license. That's how I was able to pick over at my friend's place in the Canby/Aurora area and include the fruits in my CSA shares without having to buy a fancy license.

Another thing you might think about, I'm going to give it a try in my gardens this year, is using corn gluten meal for weed control in areas where you're going to do transplanting. Almost everything I grow I start in pots or, now, the plug trays, and I had the devil's own time with weeds last year, even if I did wind up discovering (thanks to Wide Eyed Lib) that most of the weeds growing in the gardens were edible and marketable.

That having been said, I'm going for a weed suppression strategy. It's two pronged, one method will be using old paper feed bags and wood chips as a mulch, which works well for about 6 months (until the bags completely break down), the other strategy will be the corn gluten meal as a pre-emergent and immediate post emergent weed control. I've been hearing a lot about it on the gardening shows over the past few years, and a friend of ours used it on his garden a couple of years ago and it worked really well. Over time, the corn gluten meal breaks down and helps to fertilize the soil.

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....


pre-emergent (4.00 / 3)
Would a cover crop help with pre-emergent weed control, perhaps eliminating the need for corn gluten meal there?

[ Parent ]
I think that cover crops help with some weeds and in some situations and (4.00 / 3)
not in others. For instance, if you're planting a crop that is seeded directly into the ground, then, of course something like corn glutten meal wouldn't work to well for you.

Also, if a person is looking to grow organic, then you probably wouldn't want to use corn gluten meal as it's made from commercially grown field corn, which is mostly GMO. I don't know if there's an organic variety of the stuf for not.

I was just thinking of ways to help reduce work. Our garden areas have been used for row crops for 2-18 years now, so we have a lot of weeds, and I don't spray, so it's either mechanical, mulch or something like the corn gluten meal for weed control.

Of course the rabbits will help, but untill I have a team of rabbits old enough to pasture, I have to do something to keep the weeds down to a dull roar.

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....


[ Parent ]
I asked because (4.00 / 2)
Jill will plant cover crops.

Do you use cover crops?


[ Parent ]
I don't use cover crops (4.00 / 3)
This year I'll be in continual production and will be using crop rotation to put in various nutrients like nitrogen, as well as composted and fresh horse manures for various purposes.

I'll be doing extremely intensive farming, something along the lines of what I've read about the Parisian market gardeners were doing in the mid 1800s.

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....


[ Parent ]
good idea on the corn gluten meal (4.00 / 3)
i'll look into it. Mulch is a tricky thing by me because we have a pill bug problem in the summer and mulch makes it much worse. I've been told that I should mulch in the winter if at all.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
I'll make my case for deep mulch gardening. (4.00 / 4)
Especially since you've got so many pillbugs. They're detritivores (like earthworms) and that means they will automatically process your mulch into nice pillbug poo fertilizer!

You'll never be able to get rid of them by going with bare soil since you're in Southern California and have lawns nearby. They simply take advantage of the artificial climate of irrigation during the summer and eat moist decaying plant material. Sure, some may occasionally eat on seedlings, but you will hurt your clay soil by leaving it bare during the summer -- the organic material will quickly dissipate. Then you'll have to keep digging and adding compost into the soil to make up the difference.

Have you ever checked out Ruth Stout's no-till deep mulch method? It feeds the detritivores, keeps the soil moist and puts high levels of organic materials into the soil.

By the way, since I couldn't remember Ruth Stout's name, I was searching for it on the web and found this short documentary from the 1970s about her on the youtubes. It's in three parts. Have a gander:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...


[ Parent ]
you know (4.00 / 1)
this sounds like good advice, but the "do not mulch" advice I got was from THE BEST gardener I know in all of San Diego. Apparently when there's nothing dead to eat, the pill bugs start eating anything, alive or dead. Including my plants.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
great idea..I'm going to try it.. (4.00 / 4)
I wasn't going to have a veggie garden because deer ate everything.The only thing they didn't trash and eat were black berries and some of my rasberries. I really am trying to live in harmony w/ the back part of my yard a place for them to graze. But they are so over populated .BUT this year my daughter will be home for the summer and I can have help. So I figured for 25.00 for deer netting its worth it. I am also going to turn part of my house into an apartment...This may be incentive when I rent.Fresh veggies..BTW..I Did have luck with flowers and herbs last year. I grow a lot of herbs and I plant them EVERYWHERE. And I use them with cut flowers.I grow spearmint and chocolate mint as they add nice smell to bouquets...One "tip" about growing mint if you don't want it to take over. Take a big plastic pot. The kind potted plants come in. Cut out a ring and cut out the bottom..Put in ground and plant mint in it. The mint will grow..and grow up but won't spread.
Jill..if you have extra seeds I would be interested. AND I always have extra seeds. I just started buying for spring



MyFarm in SF (4.00 / 3)
If you haven't already contacted them, the San Francisco outfit called MyFarm could have some useful advice. They are using backyards as mini-farms and have a CSA. I wrote about them in 2008 at Civil Eats (back when it was the Slow Food Nation blog).  Their website seems to be down, however, so you'll have to work a little to find their contact information.

I was looking for them last night (4.00 / 3)
[ Parent ]
Excellent! (4.00 / 2)
Best of luck, Jill.  Great to know you can making a living doing things you love.  Go for it, kick ass!

If the CSA model doesn't fully work out at first, maybe you can also even run some sort of hybrid thing like what the Sellwood Garden Club is doing in Portland?

We take yards and lawns throughout SE Portland and turn them into micro-farms that feed not only the land-owners, but also patrons of the Hawthorne Urban Farmers' Market and some of our favourite restaurants in SE, Downtown and NW Portland.  Through a strictly barter arrangement with our club-members, we pay rent on our land and water use by delivering a "rent basket" of produce each week from early May until Thanksgiving each year.


"Intelligent discontent is the mainspring of civilization." - Eugene V. Debs

nice (4.00 / 2)
that sounds neat!

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
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